Menswear 101: 4 rules to knowing your proper suit fit
Fashion & Style

Menswear 101: 4 rules to knowing your proper suit fit

Ezinne Osuagwu

Buying quality men’s suit can be very tasking but we have to ask the important question, do men even know what to look out for when buying their suits? Fashion beans tells us what to look out for when choosing to get a new suit. From the length to the waist, here are 6 basic rules to choosing suits.

Watch the shoulders

The shoulders should lay flat and the seam should end where your natural shoulder ends. If this seam sits too high or too low it throws the whole jacket off and can create a ripple effect, particularly down the arms. A jacket is going to be worn both buttoned (when standing) and unbuttoned (when seated), so it’s important the fit is checked both ways. The button should fasten without struggle and the material should not strain (i.e. create wrinkles around the button). Once fastened, you should be able to insert a flat hand into the suit under the lapels, again, without it pulling.

The sleeve length

Jacket sleeves should hit around where the base of your thumb meets your wrist. This positioning will ensure the cuffs of any (properly fitting) shirt will be exposed by the right amount; about a quarter to half an inch. A poorly fitting collar is usually the knock on effect of a problem elsewhere. One that is too loose will sit away from the neck, while if it’s too tight, it will bunch up above the back. The collar of the jacket should sit comfortably against the collar your shirt.

The length of the pants

A suit should be tested as it is meant to be worn, which means trying it on with a good pair of smart shoes. Start with width: the ideal fit gives slightly more room in the thigh and then tapers below the knee. No one wants to see the outline of what’s in your pocket (or anything else for that matter).When it comes to length, you’ll often hear the term ‘break’ – this refers to the small fold of material that appears where your trousers cuff hits your shoe. Too much of this results in unsightly puddling. For a clean, modern look aim for little to no break, but make sure your ankles aren’t permanently on show.

Your waist

Your natural waist is around two inches below your navel. When sat here, your trousers should not require a belt to stay up, nor should they squeeze you into agony.Worried about needing a little extra room post-lunch? Find a pair fitted with a side-adjuster or ‘daks-strap’.

Image credits: Instagram @davidson_frere

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